In the 2nd of July 2012, I travelled to Zanzibar.
Zan-zi-barrr the very name evokes mystery, intrigue and exotic, sultry adventure. Stone Town is where it simmers, with its crumbling coral-rag palaces, winding, walled alleyways, and a history steeped in spices.
I would be lying if I told you it was as if time had stood still, the ancient trading hub of East Africa is now a relic of its former past, and it’s a crying shame not more has been done to preserve this UNESCO World Heritage Site. But, there is charm in the cultural melting pot that remains – recessed Persian houses jostle with modern Afro clothing boutiques, a waterfront dotted with old Arabic dhows, rusting 70′s-style ferries, and an Italian owned Gelato shop.
Here are my collections in the magical jumble of Stone Town.
An imposing white-washed building, the once residence of the Zanzibari royalty is now a museum dedicated to archiving the history of Zanzibar’s Sultans. Climb the central staircase and peel off into rooms archiving the sultanate era (1828-1964) with an eclectic mix of leftover furniture, paintings and such like. Each floor represents a different period but make sure to spend time in Princess Salme’s room.
Spice Tour
Anyone visiting Zanzibar simply must go on a spice tour, admittedly it’s a well trodden tourist trap, but the experience is well worth it. You’ll taxi out to an interior plantation (many of which are no longer commercially functioning) and a local guide will walk you amongst vanilla pod vines, fields of lemongrass, cumin seed pods and turmeric root. Smell, sample, savour – the experience is a sensual journey into the spices that flavour our food.
Slave Chamber and Anglican Cathedral
I grope my way down the narrow stairs to the cells. Only two slits in the thick wall allow daylight to come in. When the caretaker switches on one bare bulb I can take in the terror of this confined place. It is here that slaves awaited their lot. The ceilings were too low for them to stand upright nor could they sit down as the place was crammed. As a result many suffocated and only the strongest survived.
In 1873 the slave trade was declared illegal. Consequently the slave market in Stone Town was closed but the slave trade continued until 1918 when Tanganyika became a British protectorate. Exploitation of the former slaves did not stop; they worked for a pittance in the spice plantations. In 1961 when Tanganyika became independent the slave trade stopped for once and for all.
Next to the slave chamber is the Anglican cathedral Church of Christ built in 1873, the year the slave markets closed. The interior of the church is full of reminders of the slave trade. Dr. Livingstone, explorer, doctor, anti-slave activist, is commemorated in a stained glass window. There is also a crucifix made of the wood of the tree under which Livingstone’s heart was buried. It was his explicit wish that his heart should remain in Africa. A red circle next to the altar marks the spot of a post. Slaves were tied to it, then whipped to test their strength and resilience before being sold.
We can all applaud Dr. Livingston for his tireless work in abolishing the legal trafficking of slaves from this part of the world. The sad part is, slavery and human trafficking is NOT over. Instead of importing Africans to work in coffee, cotton and tobacco plantations it’s now occurring for even more sinister uses and mainly women and children.
Ethiopian Restaurant
Later that day I reached at Axum Ethiopian Restaurant, located down Stone town
I gorged with Shiro and Doro wot. But very expensive which cost me around 40000ths, equivalent of 400ETB. The doro is not so good, neither the Shiro; for this home grown boy there is nothing better tasting like mom's Shiro and Doro wot.
Zan-zi-barrr the very name evokes mystery, intrigue and exotic, sultry adventure. Stone Town is where it simmers, with its crumbling coral-rag palaces, winding, walled alleyways, and a history steeped in spices.
I would be lying if I told you it was as if time had stood still, the ancient trading hub of East Africa is now a relic of its former past, and it’s a crying shame not more has been done to preserve this UNESCO World Heritage Site. But, there is charm in the cultural melting pot that remains – recessed Persian houses jostle with modern Afro clothing boutiques, a waterfront dotted with old Arabic dhows, rusting 70′s-style ferries, and an Italian owned Gelato shop.
Here are my collections in the magical jumble of Stone Town.
wandering in Stone Town
Aerial view of Zanzibar, in my flight from Dar to Tanga
Our Ship approaching Zanzibar, view of port town
Leaving Dar Es Selam port
Bites and sea food; Forodhani, night food market
As the sun sets in Stone Town, locals and tourists alike flock down to Forodhani Gardens on the waterfront, where a nightly food market serves up hot griddles laden with seafood. Quench your thirst with a freshly squeezed sugarcane juice, sample skewers of octopus dipped in tamarind, lobster and crab claw, platters of prawns and Zanzibari pizza (a chapati-type pita bread stuffed with mince meat, egg, mayo, onion & chilli).
Sugar cane juice, Forodhani
Port Cafe
Palace MuseumAn imposing white-washed building, the once residence of the Zanzibari royalty is now a museum dedicated to archiving the history of Zanzibar’s Sultans. Climb the central staircase and peel off into rooms archiving the sultanate era (1828-1964) with an eclectic mix of leftover furniture, paintings and such like. Each floor represents a different period but make sure to spend time in Princess Salme’s room.
Screwed Coconut tree
Slave Chamber and Anglican Cathedral
I grope my way down the narrow stairs to the cells. Only two slits in the thick wall allow daylight to come in. When the caretaker switches on one bare bulb I can take in the terror of this confined place. It is here that slaves awaited their lot. The ceilings were too low for them to stand upright nor could they sit down as the place was crammed. As a result many suffocated and only the strongest survived.
In 1873 the slave trade was declared illegal. Consequently the slave market in Stone Town was closed but the slave trade continued until 1918 when Tanganyika became a British protectorate. Exploitation of the former slaves did not stop; they worked for a pittance in the spice plantations. In 1961 when Tanganyika became independent the slave trade stopped for once and for all.
Next to the slave chamber is the Anglican cathedral Church of Christ built in 1873, the year the slave markets closed. The interior of the church is full of reminders of the slave trade. Dr. Livingstone, explorer, doctor, anti-slave activist, is commemorated in a stained glass window. There is also a crucifix made of the wood of the tree under which Livingstone’s heart was buried. It was his explicit wish that his heart should remain in Africa. A red circle next to the altar marks the spot of a post. Slaves were tied to it, then whipped to test their strength and resilience before being sold.
Ethiopian Restaurant
Later that day I reached at Axum Ethiopian Restaurant, located down Stone town
I gorged with Shiro and Doro wot. But very expensive which cost me around 40000ths, equivalent of 400ETB. The doro is not so good, neither the Shiro; for this home grown boy there is nothing better tasting like mom's Shiro and Doro wot.
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